and not for the better in my opinion. A recent article on worldtempus.com recognizes China as the #1 market for haute horology over the U.S.A. This is bad in my opinion as it shows a major shift in where dollars are going. I have no problem with the Chinese market growing and being able to own and enjoy luxury watches. I worry that they will become such a dominant player that it will cripple other markets including the former largest amrket, the US. The crippling could stem from the weak dollar and soon to be low supply here in the states. If the Chinese market procures all the good product because they are a financial whale, then what will the rest of the world be left with. Slim pickings in my opinion. The same article also reports that AP, specifically the ROO has become the most desired haute horology piece. This is tragic in my mind. How did a classic like the JLC Reverso fall from grace and become replaced by the monstrosity that is the AP ROO. Is that really haute horology, I bet it was based on the severely hard to get factor of the limited edition ROO pieces. Next in line for demand as far as searched market share I believe is IWC.  IWC a manufacturer that has some bragging rights, but for the most part, knocks off the Reverso by using movements that the Reverso’s own “House” creates and supplies to them is nothing short of criminal. JLC and their Reverso were at the top, because their watch was tasteful, well designed, timeless, innovative, and given a pulse from a heart that beats in its own house. Answer me why an AP ROO is now at the top of the throne, is it because Arnold S. or Jay Z has a 12 pack of them? If haute horology now means this same koolaid, I will delightfully go thirsty. As always, these are my personal opinions and meant only to encourage intelligent and meaningful discussions based on timepieces and all to do with.

For SWE, Brent

A couple of weeks ago I made mention that I am always looking forward to what Jaeger will bring to SIHH. Previews and Press slips let word and pictures slip. One new release will be a Vintage inspired Deep Sea Chrono. Strangely I am not convinced about this watch. Word is that it is not a true deep diver and is not an homage or based from any particular watch of past in the JLC lineup. Simply put it is a new watch made to look old. This bugs me. As always this is a personal opinion and a humble one at that, but I simply am failing to see the appeal. The watch has a nice dial layout, but doesn’t even have an elapsed time bezel like a Sub or Seiko diver, which I consider essential, not only for diving, but for daily timing tasks. Jaeger has more intuition and development capabilities than this, why not flaunt them at an event like SIHH. I am feeling that my stand by JLC is merely trying to look good in a crowd. Rumored to be only 100m water resistant and absent of functional push pieces at depth, I think they have a trip back in time on their wrists and nothing more. It pains me to be critical of a still great brand like JLC, but order is needed in the house. Per argument’s sake, I understand that this piece is probably not intended to be a hardcore professional tool watch, but for the desk diver in us all. Why not then instead of making a mediocre diving watch, apply that ingenuity to a fully amazing desk watch or continuation in the sport model line like the Seal divers and Memovox watches? I would love to hear thoughts on this piece, not just if it looks good, but rather the reason this watch exist.

Brent for SWE,

http://www.swisswatchexpo.com/Default.aspx

Feel free to share your NYE plans, at least which watch that you will be wearing. I will be at a family farm in Florida, with of course multiple watches. I plan on taking the infamous gold and diamond Rolex, a G-Shock for some heavy outdoor abuse, and a vintage Omega in case I decide to be understated and low key. Happy New Year to all! SWE will be closed from Dec. 30th to Jan 6th.

I can’t believe it, but SIHH is right around the corner. In mid January some of the big boys will be introducing their new toys. Rumor is a Cartier featuring a minute repeater complication. I assume Cartier is really trying to bring focus to their in-house movement manufacturer. The Calibre is out and doing relatively well, but I guess they went for broke with a repeater. We will see.  I am always excited to see if Jaeger will show up with something, how about you?

Chris Cringle, Grandfather Frost, Old Saint Nick, Santa, and all the members of the team recommend that  you visit SwissWatchExpo to wrap up your Christmas shopping.

Breitling’s new look, do you love it, hate it, or are you indifferent to it? I have long been a fan and supporter of Breitling watches. My first proper timepiece was a Breilting and nothing can replace your first love. My admiration for the brand was earned through rigorous scientific tests like wearing the watch as a kid who knew it all through high school and college. Challenging the water resistance rating of the watch with a long night drowning at the local watering hole was probably the kindest love I ever showed the watch. Now that my watch life has matured, I still have nothing but love for the brand and the new look. I will be the first to admit that it takes a while to warm up to. The pictured watch is from the Colt family. The most obvious design change is the absence of rider tabs. For all their infamous glory, I think it is a shame they chose to leave them in the storeroom moving forward it seems. Rider tabs have been one of the most functional and recognizable features on a Breitling watch. They ensured grip no matter the conditions. My only other gripe against the new design is the appearance of space between the bracelet end link and case. I have yet to handle one (Colt) in person, so my observation is through pictures only. The appearance looks as if the bracelet was an after thought and almost cheapens the watch in some manner. The new Breitling designs across all lines still retain familiar characteristics. Protected push pieces, crown guards, dial details, and some of the best bracelets in the business at any price point. Breitling has taken a bit larger and more modern in your face approach to the newer styles. You might consider the Breitlings of today to have more of a “bling” factor than the brushed Superocean Professionals of the past. Their motto is “instruments for professionals” and no matter if you do or don’t like the designs, almost all models are purpose built tool watches. Their Colt line is seen as the rough and tumble bunch of the group and brushed finishes are still available, so if you are a fan of low key, stick to the Colt range. Of course classic Navitimers are still the bread and butter of the company, but are now being produced with in-house manufacturer chronograph movements created by Breitling alone. In the end, the design approach is new for the sake of change. Function has not been fooled with. Make no mistake, these are serious watches for land, sea, and of course use in the air. Design for the sake of change is not all bad, it is meant to stimulate continued interest and development of the company. Breitling has made it clear that by introducing fresh designs they are continually able to attract new and diverse clientele. Never will Breitling lose their association with pilots and the air, but by moving toward being a completely in-house  manufacturer and having new designs, the “new” Breitling might just be for your. I know that at least one will always be in my stable.

Of or belonging to the English family the word Tudor is probably best known for. At SwissWatchExpo we think about it a bit differently. We think of Tudor watches. Famously or infamously know as the little family member from Rolex. Rolex does own Tudor. Originally designed as an entry level brand or option as to those wanting a Rolex, but either found the price a bit steep or often times wanted smaller cases and multiple options. Rolex is famous for not having the Burger King attitude of “have it your way”. It has always been the Rolex way or nothing.  Tudor has used genuine Swiss mechanical movements housed in Rolex cases, most notably the Oyster case with Rolex case back and crown. The shape of case varied only slightly, but still has the features and reliability of water resistance. The bracelets originally used were even stamped with a coronet. Eventually Tudor evolved into its own brand and is creating some fantastic pieces. Family heritage is sometimes resembled, but they are most certainly their own amazing watch now. Tudor has a storied past with creating iconic pieces such as Tudor Submariners found in blue or even Date-Day models available in steel and even supporting Tiger Woods as an ambassador with unique chronograph models. With Tudor the enthusiasm thrives today with both Asia and Europe being proud enthusiast of the brand as there are no current dealers Stateside. SwissWatchExpo has some really cool pieces in stock like an all red Tiger Tudor Chrono on red sharkskin. Try something different and confuse the masses when you show them your Tudor with cyclops date window and tell them its not a Rolex, because truly it isn’t. It is something unique.

One of my favorite watches in the SwissWatchExpo stable at this moment is the Jaeger LeCoultre Master World Geographic. This is one tight watch. If you travel in style and sport your Persols on the French Riviera lounging with a glass of Rose, then you probably already have this watch and have no need to read the rest of my ramble. If however you are in the market for a watch that is capable of tracking multiple timezones, then a double take is most certainly required for this JLC. My brain becomes tied in a pretzel knot trying to figure out how JLC was able to squeeze all the functions of this watch into a movement less than 5mm thin. The watch is capable of simultaneously tracking 24 timezones, as well as displaying the date and reserve de march. JLC should be applauded as still being a completely in-house manufacturer, which is about as rare as a decrease in bank fees these days. The watch is a capable and worldly piece that has been crafted correctly. A Chris Craft  in the watch world if you will, of only the finest independent thinking and craftsmanship paired with only necessary advancements in technology to create truly one of the finest things. I encourage anyone that has conjured up the courage to buy a Swiss watch other than a Rolex to procure this piece, strap it on, live, and share the joy of ownership.

Omega madness, check out all of the new offerings at www.omegawatches.com They have the new Seamaster 300 Ceramic up. It lost the wave pattern dial. New sizes and other offerings in the PO line with variants of the 8500 series movements, specifically a chronograph. Don’t hold back, tell me what you think. I personally like some of the offerings in the PO, but remain biased toward the previous generation 300m until I am able to do a review on the new release in the metal. I secretly like the midsize PO too. A nice size as opposed to some of the monster size stuff out there today.